The culinary landscape of Goa, long defined by its coastal tang and Portuguese-influenced flavors, is undergoing a sophisticated transformation. At the forefront of this evolution is Kesar Bagh, a newly inaugurated sanctuary of Awadhi cuisine located in the leafy enclave of Assagao. Founded by Chef Azaan Qureshi, a scion of India’s most venerable culinary dynasty, the restaurant is more than a mere dining establishment; it is a living archive of a royal gastronomic heritage.
Main Facts: A Pedigree of Culinary Excellence
Kesar Bagh represents a significant milestone in India’s fine-dining sector, marking the first flagship solo venture of Chef Azaan Qureshi. The restaurant’s identity is inextricably linked to the Qureshi lineage—a name synonymous with the refinement of North Indian flavors. Azaan is the grandson of the late Padma Shri awardee Chef Imtiaz Qureshi, the legendary figure who revolutionized Indian hotel dining by establishing iconic brands like Bukhara and Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya, Delhi.
Collaborating with Priyank Sukhija, the CEO and Managing Director of First Fiddle F&B—the powerhouse behind brands like Lord of the Drinks and Dragonfly—Azaan Qureshi has brought the slow-cooked, aromatically complex traditions of Lucknow to the vibrant shores of Goa.
The restaurant is housed within a meticulously restored 180-year-old Portuguese bungalow, spanning half an acre. It offers a seating capacity for 120 guests, distributed across a series of intimate indoor rooms and two expansive al fresco dining areas. The menu is a curated selection of Awadhi classics, emphasizing the Dum (slow-steaming) technique and the Galawat (tenderizing) method that have defined the Qureshi family’s output for generations.
Chronology: From the Courts of Lucknow to the Bungalows of Assagao
The story of Kesar Bagh begins decades ago in the royal kitchens of Awadh, where the Qureshi family served as the custodians of secret recipes and sophisticated cooking techniques.
- 1970s-1980s: Chef Imtiaz Qureshi rises to prominence, defining the high-water mark of Awadhi cuisine in India’s luxury hotel segment. His work at ITC Maurya becomes the benchmark for kebabs and biryanis globally.
- The Formative Years: Azaan Qureshi spends 15 years within the ITC hotels ecosystem, learning the "finer nuances" of the trade from his grandfather and his father, Chef Ghulam Qureshi. This period serves as a rigorous apprenticeship in the art of the Kebabchi.
- Late 2023: Plans for Kesar Bagh are initially drawn for Gurugram, Haryana. The project is envisioned as a high-end urban outpost for traditional Awadhi food.
- Early 2024: Azaan and Priyank Sukhija discover a 19th-century Portuguese bungalow in Assagao, Goa. Struck by the architectural synergy between the grandeur of Lucknow and the vintage charm of Goa, they decide to pivot the entire project to the coastal state.
- April 2024: Kesar Bagh officially opens its doors to the public, joining the ranks of elite "destination dining" spots in Goa’s bustling F&B scene.
Supporting Data: Architectural Splendor and Gastronomic Precision
The Setting: A Fusion of Eras
Kesar Bagh’s design language is a deliberate departure from the rustic shacks typical of the region. The color palette—a sophisticated blend of light salmon pink and teal—creates a backdrop that is both contemporary and nostalgic.
Upon entering, guests are greeted by a courtyard featuring a marble fountain strewn with rose petals, leading to "Kesar," the outdoor bar. The interior is a labyrinth of interconnected rooms, each maintaining its original 19th-century doors and high-tiled roofs. The decor is elevated by vibrant paintings by the renowned artist Thota Vaikuntam and vintage accessories mounted in frames, while crystal chandeliers hang from the rafters to evoke the opulence of the Nawab’s courts.
The Menu: A Symphony of Slow Cooking
The culinary experience at Kesar Bagh is defined by precision and patience. The menu highlights include:
- The Kakori Kebab: Often described as the "pinnacle of kebabs," this dish uses the galawat technique. Raw papaya is used as a natural tenderizer, allowing the lamb to achieve a melt-in-the-mouth consistency that requires almost no chewing.
- Gucchi-Subz-E-Zar: A tribute to the Himalayan morel. These expensive mushrooms are stuffed with clotted cream and potato, then cooked in a rich salan-style gravy. This dish is a nod to Chef Imtiaz Qureshi’s penchant for incorporating French-inspired delicacy into Indian structures.
- Dal Ma Qureshi: The family’s signature take on the black lentil, cooked overnight to achieve a creamy texture without the over-reliance on heavy fats.
- Innovative Breads: The bakery at Kesar Bagh produces Sheermal (saffron-rich, mildly sweet bread), Hazari Naan (layered with ajwain), and a unique Doodh Garlic Naan kneaded with milk, curd, and cheese.
The Beverage Program
The bar at Kesar Bagh seeks to balance the heavy, spice-rich profile of Awadhi food with refreshing, fruit-forward cocktails. The "Mango Kesar Spritzer" serves as a seasonal palate cleanser, while the "Picante," infused with curry leaves and elderflower, provides a botanical counterpoint to the rich gravies.
Official Responses: Insights from Chef Azaan Qureshi
In discussions regarding the philosophy behind Kesar Bagh, Chef Azaan Qureshi emphasizes that the restaurant is an educational endeavor as much as a commercial one.
"In Awadhi cuisine, it’s not just the masalas but the dum technique that is special," Azaan explains. "It makes even fewer spices seem more complex through the longer process." He notes that the Kakori kebab, a flagship item, has been "perfected over 30 to 50 years" within his family, representing a legacy that he feels a personal responsibility to uphold.
Addressing the choice of Goa over Gurugram, Azaan highlights the "perfect property" syndrome. He believes that the historical weight of a 180-year-old bungalow provides the necessary "reverence" that Awadhi food demands.
When asked about the global reach of this cuisine, Azaan remains ambitious. While Awadhi food has reached international hubs like Tokyo and New York, he believes there is still a significant gap in authentic representation within India’s diverse states. "If I don’t do it, who will?" he remarks, highlighting his role as a torchbearer for the Qureshi name.
Implications: The Evolution of Goa’s Dining Identity
The opening of Kesar Bagh in Assagao carries several implications for the regional and national food industry:
1. The "Assagao-fication" of Goa
Assagao has rapidly transitioned from a quiet residential village to India’s premier culinary "Silicon Valley." The arrival of a high-concept Awadhi restaurant suggests that the market in Goa is now mature enough to support specialized, high-end regional Indian cuisines that go beyond the standard "tandoori" or "seafood" templates.
2. Preservation of Intangible Heritage
By moving away from corporate hotel structures and into independent flagship properties, chefs like Azaan Qureshi are ensuring that traditional techniques—such as the specific use of galawat or the intricate layering of dum biryani—are preserved in their most authentic forms. This "democratization of fine dining" allows a wider audience to experience palace-grade food without the barrier of a five-star hotel lobby.
3. The Rise of the "Chef-Restaurateur"
The partnership between Azaan Qureshi and Priyank Sukhija exemplifies a growing trend where culinary talent and business acumen join forces to create brands that are both culturally significant and commercially viable. This model allows the chef to maintain creative control over the heritage recipes while benefiting from a robust operational infrastructure.
4. Seasonal and Regional Synergy
Kesar Bagh’s success will likely encourage other regional Indian specialty restaurants to look toward Goa as a viable second home. The state’s high tourist influx, combined with a growing community of affluent digital nomads and second-home owners, provides a stable year-round demographic for premium dining experiences.
Conclusion
Kesar Bagh stands as a testament to the enduring power of tradition. In a world of fast-paced culinary trends and fusion experiments, Chef Azaan Qureshi has opted for the slow, the steady, and the soulful. By transplanting the flavors of the Lucknowi courts into a Portuguese-Goan setting, he has created a unique cultural dialogue—one where the "joy of an impeccable dish" transcends geography and time. For the diners in Assagao, the table is set, the music is faded, and the legacy of the Qureshis is served one delicate kebab at a time.
Fact Box: Kesar Bagh
- Location: 5, Saunto Waddo, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Assagao, Goa.
- Average Cost: ₹4,000 for two.
- Cuisine Type: Authentic Awadhi.
- Key Personnel: Chef Azaan Qureshi (Founder), Priyank Sukhija (Partner).
- Signature Dish: Kakori Kebab with Sheermal.
