Mumbai, India – After a dedicated two-year journey, Sasha Goenka has unveiled Pique, a sophisticated yet approachable wine bar nestled in the historic Horniman Circle precinct of South Mumbai. The establishment is born from a clear and resonant vision: to democratize the experience of wine drinking and to cultivate the warm, convivial atmosphere characteristic of charming European neighborhood bistros. In a city increasingly sophisticated in its palate and seeking engaging "third spaces" beyond home and work, Pique enters the scene with a compelling proposition.
Goenka, whose culinary and wine credentials include studies at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu and a WSET Level 3 certification, believes that while cafes, beer halls, and cocktail bars have firmly cemented their place as social hubs, wine has often been left on the periphery of this conversation. "I want Pique to be a place where people can gather and connect over a really good glass of wine," she states, articulating a desire to foster a sense of community around the appreciation of fermented grapes. Her previous experience, including a stint helping to launch the successful Late Checkout bar in Mumbai, has clearly equipped her with the insight and drive to bring this ambitious concept to fruition.
Genesis of a European Haven: From Bandra to Horniman Circle
The journey to Pique’s current location was not without its detours. Initially slated for an opening in the vibrant suburb of Bandra, the opportunity to secure a space in Horniman Circle proved irresistible. This historic precinct, with its grand heritage buildings and evocative old-world architecture, offered an unparalleled backdrop that perfectly aligned with Goenka’s envisioned European wine bar aesthetic. The very environment whispers tales of a bygone era, providing an authentic and immersive setting that complements the desired ambiance of Pique. The choice of location is more than just a practical decision; it’s a strategic alignment of the venue’s spirit with its surroundings, promising an experience that transcends mere dining and drinking.
An Ample Canvas for Conviviality: Pique’s Expansive Interior
Upon entering Pique, guests are struck by the surprising generosity of space, a welcome departure from the often-cramped interiors of many urban wine bars. Spanning two levels, the establishment is designed to comfortably host an estimated 80 to 90 patrons, ensuring a lively yet uncrowded experience. The interiors artfully blend rustic wood and sleek metal accents, creating a sophisticated yet inviting aesthetic. This is further enhanced by a curated collection of vintage European posters and subtle pop-culture references that add layers of personality and intrigue. A silent projector continuously loops a selection of artful visuals and classic Charlie Chaplin films, contributing to a relaxed and cinematic ambiance. Connecting the two levels is a striking staircase adorned with wine corks, a playful and thematic touch that underscores the establishment’s core identity. Strategically placed window-facing stools invite patrons to settle in with a laptop and a glass of wine, embodying Goenka’s aspiration for Pique to serve as a versatile "third space" – a comfortable extension of one’s personal domain.
A Dynamic Wine Programme: Innovation and Inclusivity
The heart of Pique’s offering lies in its thoughtfully curated and dynamic wine programme, a key differentiator that sets it apart from more static wine lists. The programme undergoes a complete refresh every two months, ensuring a constant influx of new discoveries and seasonal highlights. This commitment to variety allows patrons to explore a broad spectrum of wines, featuring 12 wines available by the glass and 24 by the bottle.
Crucially, Pique champions a philosophy of wine democratization, giving equal prominence to Indian labels alongside their international counterparts. This inclusive approach aims to broaden the appeal of wine drinking and introduce a wider audience to the quality and diversity of wines produced both domestically and globally. While a dedicated sommelier is yet to be appointed, Goenka is actively refining the concept, indicating a fluid and adaptive approach to the establishment’s operations.
A significant partnership with Nashik’s esteemed Vallonne Vineyards provides Pique with access to some truly distinctive and exceptional pours. The Vallonne Orange, a particularly noteworthy selection, is a savoury, fruit-forward orange wine that offers an intriguing departure for those looking to explore beyond the conventional red, white, and sparkling categories. This willingness to showcase unconventional styles underscores Pique’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of wine appreciation.
The opening wine list further exemplifies this commitment to diversity and quality. It features notable bottles such as Fratelli Sette from India, the Portuguese Quinta de Fontal Florão, Greece’s Mega Spileo, and Spain’s Albamar, a wine celebrated for its distinct saline and citrus-forward profile. This carefully selected ensemble represents a global journey in a glass, designed to engage and delight even the most discerning palates.
Beyond the Grape: A Compelling Cocktail and Culinary Offering
While wine undeniably takes center stage at Pique, the cocktail menu warrants equal exploration. The "Pizza-cante" is a clever and inventive concoction, artfully integrating pizza flavors into a picante cocktail, enhanced by the subtle notes of Chenin Blanc. The "Wicked Martini" is another standout, allowing the savory complexity of smoked olives and capers to shine. Perhaps the most intriguing is the "Pique Spritz," a seemingly improbable combination of Aperol, grapefruit and orange cordial, house-made coffee liqueur, and sparkling wine. Against all odds, this audacious blend harmonizes beautifully, proving that Goenka and her team are not afraid to experiment and innovate.
The culinary direction at Pique leans heavily on the rich traditions of French, Spanish, and Italian cuisine. The menu has been meticulously curated by Sasha Goenka in collaboration with consultant chef and renowned cheesemaker Aditya Raghavan. Raghavan’s extensive experience, spanning both Canada and India, brings a unique perspective to the kitchen. Having worked on cheese farms in Canada and dedicated a decade to consulting on dairy and cheese across India, including engagements with The Farm in Chennai and Begum Victoria Cheese in Bengaluru, his expertise is evident in the thoughtful composition of the dishes.
However, the execution of the food menu, while conceptually promising, has been a point of inconsistency. While several dishes on paper sound exceptionally appealing, their delivery on the plate has, at times, fallen short. For instance, the spaghetti all’assassina was noted to be overly salty, and the house-made ciabatta struggled to adequately support the Italian deli mortadella. Other dishes, while demonstrating inventiveness in their conception, proved less convincing in their final presentation and flavor profiles.
Fortunately, Pique also boasts several culinary highlights that showcase the kitchen’s potential. The "faux gras," crafted from a delightful blend of mushrooms and cashews, served with crostini and a house-made compote, is exceptionally delicious and a testament to creative plant-based cooking. The seabass, prepared with a vibrant vierge sauce, accompanied by crisp green beans and toasted almonds, is beautifully balanced and expertly cooked. The patatas bravas also stands out as one of the most consistently strong dishes on the menu, offering a delightful rendition of a classic Spanish tapa.
The dessert menu provides a fittingly sweet conclusion, with the parmesan cheesecake proving to be a particular triumph. Its rich, savory profile, complemented by a sourdough crumb and a red wine reduction, creates a complex and satisfying flavor experience. This cheesecake pairs exceptionally well with the Vietti Moscato d’Asti, an Italian Moscato with delightful sweet apricot notes that artfully balance the cheesecake’s inherent richness.
The Implication: A Promising Beginning, A Journey to Maturity
Pique arrives at a propitious moment in Mumbai’s evolving culinary landscape. The city is increasingly embracing wine, and Goenka’s vision of an accessible, convivial wine bar addresses a clear demand. While the establishment possesses all the ingredients for success – a prime location, a well-conceived concept, and a passionate founder – it still feels like a restaurant in the process of finding its definitive stride. Sasha Goenka’s recent two-week stage at Bengaluru’s Wine in Progress further solidified her belief in the growing appetite for wine-focused establishments, reinforcing her commitment to Pique’s mission.
Like a young wine, Pique is still developing its character and finding its balance. The ambition is palpable, and the foundations are strong. With time, continued refinement, and a consistent focus on execution, Pique has the potential to blossom into the beloved neighborhood wine bar that Mumbai has long yearned for, becoming a true cornerstone of its vibrant social scene.
A meal for two at Pique, including alcohol and taxes, is estimated to cost approximately ₹2,500.
